Planting Bareroot Roses

January is the perfect time to buy and begin planting roses. This time of year they are sold bareroot. Bareroot simply means that all the soil has been removed from the plant during its dormant period. A container and soil are not needed to protect the plant's roots, but instead burlap, plastic and sawdust are generally used to protect the roots.

Bareroot is the best way to introduce new roses (and deciduous trees and shrubs) into your garden. Bareroot roses are much less expensive than buying potted roses later in the season. They cost less because the labor involved in growing the plant, compared to potted roses, is eliminated. There are other advantages to buying bareroot roses versus potted roses. Bareroot plants adjust more quickly to soil and garden conditions than potted roses. Bareroot is easy to plant and benefits the plant by being planted directly into its native garden soil. Bareroots settle in with a minimum of transplant shock. Timing is crucial: in most areas they can be planted in early spring, before their leaves unfurl; where temperatures rarely dip below 20 degrees, winter planting is best.

Select fresh looking plants with strong stems, and well formed roots. Roses are graded by the number and size of the canes: #1 grade has at least 3 strong canes 5/15" and branched no higher than 3" from the bud union. It is important to plant as soon as possible after purchase, keeping roots cool and moist until planting.

The right site. Roses need at least 6 hours of sun each day. Morning sun is best, since it evaporates disease-causing dew from the foliage. In hot climates, roses will appreciate some light afternoon shade.

No fungus among us. Select a site with good air circulation to prevent fungal diseases, such as blackspot and rust. Also avoid planting them in damp, stagnant spots where there is little breeze. This will help prevent excessive problems with powdery mildew and black spot. Space most roses at least 2 feet apart; some large shrub types require 6 feet of room. Also be sure to keep roses a good distance from other mildew-prone plants such as bee balm, zinnia, and lilac. Also choose a site where large tree roots do not tap the rose's water supply. Try to avoid planting in an area where roses were previously growing. If the old roses had any root or crown diseases, the pathogens could still be in the soil.

Soak the roots in a pail of water for 4-24 hours before planting to rehydrate or 'plump up' the roots.

Prune any damaged or broken roots back to healthy tissue. Shorten roots that are too long to fit in the planting hole without bending. Don't worry about making a pruning mistake; it's hard to go wrong.

Planting holes should be dug wide enough and deep enough to comfortably accept the roots of the plant. Wider is better; 18 inches is recommended. Mix a good quality soil amendment into the soil taken from the hole. The ratio should be 1 part compost to 2 parts native soil; roses are heavy feeders and will enjoy the rich soil. Make a cone-shaped mound of soil with your mixture in the center of the hole. Center the rose over the mound, spreading out the roots. Be sure that the bud union, where the top growth meets the rootstock, is at soil level in mild areas and 1-2 inches below in cold climates.

Hold plant upright while you backfill with a third of the amended soil and water. Repeat twice, until the backfill is at soil level. Mound more soil loosely around the canes to support them. You can remove the mounded soil when leaf growth reaches about 1 inch. Form a watering basin around the perimeter of the planting hole. Do not tamp the soil as this compacts it and destroys soil structure. Mulch your newly planted rose and wait for the show!

Drink deep. Roses, especially when young, need plenty of water. Give the roots a long, slow soaking. Always be sure to keep water off the foliage.

Big eaters. Roses have hearty appetites-satisfy them by scratching in a specially formulated rose fertilizer around the base, then watering in. Feed young roses after they bloom, then once a month thereafter. Feed mature plants about a month before blooming in spring, then once a month thereafter.

Note: In areas where it freezes fertilize six weeks before anticipated first frost, but not after September 1. For proper hardening of canes for winter, do not fertilize late in the fall.

Growth spurt. To stimulate growth, sprinkle a tablespoon of magnesium-rich Epsom salts around the base of each rosebush in May and June.